After visiting Évora, we set out on a road trip through the Alentejo. We drove through small remote villages, climbed up castles, sipped many wine glasses, and ate delicious seafood by the coast. In little less than a week, we explored this region from end to end, and now we’re sharing our Alentejo itinerary with you, so you don’t miss the best bits.
From Évora, head west to Montemor-o-Novo and start the day with a wine tasting session at Quinta da Plansel or L’AND Vineyards.
Then, make your way to the town centre and visit the castle. Take a walk along the walls and enjoy the panoramic views of Montemor and the yellow plains below.
Continue to Arraiolos, and if you’re up for it, make a stop at Monte da Ravasqueira for another wine tour. Arraiolos is famous for its hand-woven tapestries, but it also has a few interesting sites, like the Convento dos Lóios and the Castelo de Arraiolos, one of the few circular fortifications in Portugal.
If you want to purchase a rug, the street Rua Alexandre Herculano is the best place to go.
You can also visit the Interpretative Centre of Arraiolos for an in-depth history of this traditional craft.
As you drive towards Estremoz, it’s impossible not to notice Evoramonte and its imposing castle rising on a hill. In a place with little over 500 residents, the castle is the town’s crown jewel. What makes this stronghold so special is the four cylindrical turrets standing on each corner, which is unlike any other in Alentejo. After exploring the castle, take a couple of minutes to wander around the cobblestone streets, stopping by Celeiro Comum for a handmade souvenir.
Estremoz is larger than Evoramonte, but it still has that small-town vibe. Start your tour in Rossio, a square lined with churches and alfresco cafés. Then take a detour to the shop Irmãs Flores, a little atelier that sells Bonecos de Estremoz, colourful ceramic dolls typical from this region.
The town is also famous for its marble production, and you’ll notice that everywhere you go, especially around the castle area. Towering over Estremoz, the castle has an impressive 27-metre keep covered in marble from top to bottom. Part of the castle got converted into a hotel, but you can still walk inside and explore its surroundings. Facing the building is a marble statue of Elizabeth of Aragon, a 16th-century church and a tiny regional museum, which you can skip if you've already visited the atelier.
Before dinner, squeeze in a visit to one of the local wineries. The closest one is Tiago Cabaço, but there are others further west like João Portugal Ramos and Herdade das Servas. This last one offers the opportunity to participate in the wine harvest, which takes place around September.
For your second day, head south and explore the region of Baixo Alentejo. Beja is the main city here, but the smaller towns around it deserve a visit too.
Before reaching Beja, go for a tour in the nearby vineyards of Herdade dos Grous or Herdade da Mingorra.
If you’re staying in the area, it’s worth stopping by Parque da Cidade for a relaxing stroll. Otherwise, you can go straight to the city centre.
It’s here you’ll find the city’s two main attractions: the castle and the Museu Rainha Dona Leonor, also known as the Regional Museum.
Visit the castle first and climb up to the ramparts for the best views of the countryside. Then, go to the Regional Museum, where you’ll find cloisters lined with stunning blue-and-white tiles.
From Beja, drive East towards Serpa. This tiny whitewashed village is mainly famous for its creamy cheese, but there’s much more to do here.
If you want to try the local delicacy, head to one of the cheese shops scattered around town like Queijaria Tradiserpa. Next, follow the route to the castle, passing by the Torre do Relógio, one of the oldest clock towers in Portugal.
The castle has an unusual entrance with two large rocks leaning against each other. There’s been a fortress here since the Roman era, but the present structure dates back to the 14th century. From the castle’s battlements, you can watch over the village and its narrow streets. There’s also a museum inside with a collection of items such as Roman funerary stones.
After visiting the castle, you can take a look at the exhibitions at Serpa’s modern art gallery or stop by the Museu do Relógio, where you’ll find thousands of clocks ranging from the 17th to 20th century.
Exiting Serpa, you can drop by Herdade do Vau for a little wine tasting session. Besides the vineyards, this estate also includes a hotel, so you can always come back and spend the night here.
On the way to Mértola, you’ll find numerous attractions. First up is Pulo do Lobo, a small waterfall overlooking the Guadiana River. Access to Pulo do Lobo can be done from Serpa, via the village in Vale de Poços.
A few miles down from the waterfall is the Praia da Tapada Grande, a river beach with thatched umbrellas and a picnic area. Besides swimming, you can rent a canoe or grab a drink at the beach bar which opens during the summer.
Nearby, it’s worth visiting the Mina de São Domingos, a remarkable mining territory that is now in ruins.
Mértola is perhaps the most picturesque town in theAlentejo. Set on the banks of the Guadiana river, this medieval town is home to a collection of museums and a castle with spectacular views.
From Roman ruins to an Islamic residence, Mértola’s museums cover a variety of eras. The first one you’ll see when you approach the town is the Museu Paleocristão, which features the remains of a paleo-Christian basilica and a Visigothic cemetery. Before continuing the tour of museums, there are few places where you can stop on the way.
There’s the
Oficina de Tecelagem, a weaving workshop where you can buy handmade wool
products and further up is the parish church which used to be a mosque.
Once inside, follow the passage in the back, which leads to a tiny
museum.
Next to the church are the open-air ruins of an Islamic
neighbourhood and the castle of Mértola. Rising above the town, the
castle offers incredible views over the river and beyond. You can walk
along the walls for free or pay a small fee and climb up to the tower.
When you’re done exploring the castle, get back to the route of museums, passing through Casa Romana, a Roman house set inside Mértola’s town hall, followed by the Núcleo de Arte Sacra and the Núcleo Islâmico. To end the afternoon, you can take a leisurely boat trip along the river.
As you drive towards the north of the Alentejo, you’ll notice a change of scenery. Instead of flatlands with oak trees and vineyards, you’ll find villages and castles surrounded by lush green hills.
This region is known as Alto Alentejo, and Portalegre is its capital. Set amidst the São Mamede Natural Park, Portalegre is a small city with a thriving textile industry.
One of the main attractions here is the Museu de Tapeçarias, a museum solely dedicated to Portalegre tapestries. The ground floor covers the city’s history and shows the step-by-step process of making this local craft, from tracing a design to the traditional weaving techniques. Upstairs, there are numerous rooms with tapestries on the walls inspired by the work of national and international artists. Some are pretty abstract, while others are more representational, like the Lisbon series by Carlos Botelho.
After the museum, you can pay a quick visit to Portalegre’s castle. The original building dates back to the 13th century, but in 2016 a new wooden structure was added, so it looks slightly modern. There’s a small exhibit on the first floor, but if you want to see the tower, you’ll need to step outside. It will only take a few minutes to capture it, as there’s a restricted section for visitors to walk.
Besides these two places, there’s not much else to visit in the centre of Portalegre, so you can get back on the road to Marvão. This charming village lures visitors with its medieval castle and breathtaking mountain views.
There are a few spots worth checking on the way to Marvão, including the Alentejo Sculpture Park and the Roman villa of Ammaia. The first one is part of the Quinta do Barrieiro, a rural estate nestled amid the São Mamede mountains. Even if you’re not staying here, you can visit the surrounding park. Here, you’ll find a collection of contemporary sculptures designed by the Portuguese artist Maria Leal da Costa. Don’t be surprised if you bump into a few sheep on the way out, after all you’re in the middle of the countryside.
A bit further north is the Roman villa of Ammaia. Dating back to the 1st century BC, this villa was occupied by the Romans for several centuries. While you can only see a few ruins today, there’s a video on-site which shows how Ammaia might have looked like back in its glory days.
Once you’ve seen the ruins, you can continue to the town of Portagem. Set on the banks of the river Sever, this town is a popular meeting spot in the summer. Besides the natural swimming pool, there are several sports facilities and riverfront cafés where you can grab a drink. There’s also a Roman bridge here which is considered the oldest toll road in Portugal.
From Portagem follow the N359, and you’ll end up in the heart of Marvão. Park the car outside Porta Este and then walk the rest of the way to the castle. You can stay on the cobblestone path, or climb up the walls and enjoy the mountain views.
As you walk, keep your eyes peeled for the castle, which sits on the edge of a rocky outcrop. Before you enter, you can wander around the gardens or visit the Museu Municipal, a small museum set inside a church which features items from the Paleolithic age to more modern days.
Built around the 13th century, the castle of Marvão has one of the most beautiful settings in Alentejo. Visit the cistern by the entrance and then walk around the battlements to relish the views once again.
After the castle, you can continue exploring the narrow streets of Marvão, and if you feel like it, grab a coffee or a glass of wine at one of the many open-air cafés.
Besides wine, the Alentejo is also a region of olive oil. A few miles east from Marvão, you can visit the Lagar-Museu António Picado Nunes, a space that pays tribute to this beloved ingredient. The tour includes an overview of the history of the region, a visit to the olive groves, and a brief explanation of how to make olive oil. To end the tour, the owners offer an olive oil tasting paired with other regional products.
Another thing you can do in the area is the Rail Bike Marvão. The train is no longer working here, but you can pedal over the tracks connecting the towns of Marvão and Castelo de Vide. Make sure to bring comfortable wear with you because the minimum journey takes around two hours.
To end your day in Alto Alentejo, head to Castelo de Vide. This pocket-sized village sticks out with its whitewashed houses clinging to the hills of the São Mamede Natural Park. Overlooking the village stands the castle with its imposing stone walls. You can start your tour here and then explore the Jewish quarter, also known as Judiaria. For a long time, Castelo de Vide was home to a community of Jews that escaped the inquisition from Portugal and Spain. Hiding amidst the trail of houses is a 13th-century synagogue featuring a mihrab and a museum sharing the history of Jews in the area.
Once you’ve seen the old town, walk back to the centre, passing through the Fonte da Vila, a 16th-century marble fountain. End your tour of Castelo de Vide at Praça de Dom Pedro V, the town’s main square, where you’ll find the town hall and a baroque church.
That covers the main attractions in the centre, but there’s one more place to see further out. If you leave the village and follow the N246-1 towards the west, you’ll end up at the Castelo de Vide train station. It’s where the route of Rail Bike Marvão ends, but even if you don’t cycle from Marvão, you should come here to admire the stunning tile panels covering the station’s old building.
Start your morning at São Pedro do Corval, a tiny village renowned for its ceramics. There are over 20 pottery workshops to visit around here, making it one of the largest artisan communities in Portugal. You can come here to see the potters at work or buy a souvenir from the shops, which include anything from plates to decorative tiles.
From Corval, make your way north to Vila Viçosa. Like Estremoz, Vila Viçosa is also a marble hub, and you’ll find traces of it all over the town.
Once you get to Vila Viçosa, you can begin your tour by the castle. The two circular towers mark the entrance to the castle’s grounds, which were once the home of the Dukes of Bragança before they moved to Paço Ducal. Beyond the walls is a series of houses, a church and the castle which now contains the museums of archaeology and hunting.
A few steps from the castle is the Terreiro do Paço, a large square that vaguely resembles the one in Lisbon, but without the crowds. Facing the square is the Paço Ducal, a 16th-century palace with a stunning marble façade. Inside, you’ll find a series of paintings and antique furniture posing alongside tiled walls and painted ceilings. The palace has a few sections which you can visit separately, including a collection of Chinese porcelain, a carriage museum and the armoury room.
After Vila Viçosa, continue driving to Elvas, a fortified town located in the east of the Alentejo.
On the way to the town, you can stop by Forte da Graça. This old military structure is one of the most unique fortifications in Elvas, with its walls forming the shape of a star. At the highest part of the fortress stands a yellow building known as Casa do Governador. From this vantage point, you can capture the town and admire the views of the countryside below.
As you approach Elvas, you’ll inevitably pass by Aqueduto da Amoreira. Completed in the 17th century, this large aqueduct is one of the town’s landmarks and stretches for nearly 8 km.
Before entering the medieval walls, you can visit the Forte de Santa Luzia, another star-shaped fortress which features a small military museum. From there, head straight to the old town, and follow the route to the castle. The castle was initially established by the Moors, but the present structure dates back to the 13th century. There’s also a bar here where you can stop for a quick drink.
After wandering around the castle, head to the Cathedral, passing through Largo Santa Clara. In the middle of this square is a 16th-century pillory which was once the site of inquisition trials.
The imposing cathedral was also around during that era, but it got renovated in the 18th century, so it includes Baroque elements like the chapels and the golden organ.
From Elvas, you can go straight to Monsaraz or, if you want, you can make a small detour to Campo Maior to visit the vineyards of Adega Mayor. Amid the vineyards is a stark white building designed by Portuguese architect Siza Vieira, which stores the wine barrels. You can do a simple tour of the estate or combine your visit with a wine workshop or a picnic.
Coming from Elvas or Campo Maior, drive down to Reguengos de Monsaraz. This is the home of Herdade do Esporão, one of the most famous producers of the Alentejo wine. They offer guided tours several times per day, but make sure to book in advance to guarantee a place. Beyond the vineyards, there’s also a restaurant, a wine bar and a shop where you can buy bottles to take home. Even if you miss the tour, you can always order a glass of wine by the bar and pair it with a delicious cheese board.
Another option is to visit Ervideira, a smaller vineyard between Reguengos and Évora that also provides wine tours and tastings.
After Reguengos, continue to the Amieira Marina, a small harbour set along the Alqueva Lake. In the summer, this area is a great spot for watersports like canoeing and paddle. You can even rent a boat for fishing or take a cruise along the lake with friends. If you prefer to relax, there’s a river beach nearby with a big sandy stretch offering views of the surrounding olive groves.
From here, head to Monsaraz, a tiny hilltop village enclosed by medieval walls. Park the car outside the walls and then continue on foot, passing through one of the ancient gates. Porta da Vila is the main entrance, but three other gates give access to the village as well.
If you walk alongside the walls, you’ll soon spot the Monsaraz Castle. Established in the 14th century, this castle was at the frontline of numerous battles between Portugal and Spain. Today its empty grounds offer the best viewpoint over the Alqueva Lake.
Once you’ve seen the castle, take a stroll around the village, stopping by the Igreja Nossa Senhora da Lagoa to admire the marble tomb of a Knight Templar. Opposite the church is an 18th-century pillory that is also worth capturing.
A few miles outside the village is the Praia Fluvial de Monsaraz, another river beach where you can unwind after a tiring day of sightseeing.
At
night, don’t miss the Observatório do Lago Alqueva. This local
observatory is the best place for stargazing in the Alentejo. Every night,
the centre organises two-hour astronomical observations that teach you
about constellations and allow you to observe the stars and faraway
galaxies with the help of a telescope.
Enjoy your last day in the Alentejo relaxing by the coast. From Troia to Odemira, a trail of seaside towns and beaches await you in this sun-drenched region.
Whether you’re coming from Lisbon or Évora, it will take you about the same time to reach Troia. This sandy peninsula stands amid the Sado Estuary and the Atlantic, and it’s a meeting point for dolphins. You can drive there from Évora, passing through Comporta or take the ferry boat from Setúbal.
From peaceful beaches to golf courses and casinos, Troia is full of entertainment options. You can spend a few hours here, relaxing by the beach and then take a boat trip from the marina to observe the dolphins. On the way back, visit the Roman ruins, a large settlement on the east end of the peninsula established around the 1st century BC.
After exploring Troia, you can stop by Comporta. This is one of the Alentejo’s coastal gems, a tiny village with a wide sandy stretch and plenty of seafood restaurants. Take a stroll around Praia da Comporta on foot or ride a horse along the dunes with Cavalos na Areia. While you’re in the area, you can also do a tour of Herdade da Comporta, a wine estate set between rice paddies. They offer tours of the vineyard throughout the day, as well as wine tasting sessions.
In the afternoon, continue on the road to Vila Nova de Milfontes. This seaside town is a bit more lively than Comporta, especially in the summer, when surfers and sunbathers flock its pristine beaches.
On the way to Milfontes, you can stop by the Lagoa de Santo André. Stretching for 15km along the coast, this is a large natural reserve made up of two wetlands. The protected area offers the perfect setting for birdwatching and numerous water activities like canoeing and windsurfing.
Further down, there are a few towns that deserve a visit, such as Sines and Porto Covo. Both of them feature a vast selection of beaches, but the best ones are Praia da Samoqueira in Sines and Praia Grande in Porto Covo.
It’s in Porto Covo that the Costa Vicentina begins, a wild coastal stretch that extends from the Alentejo to the tip of the Algarve. The beaches here attract a crowd of surfers, and the high cliffs are a favourite spot for hikers and cyclists. There are many trails along the Costa Vicentina, both for beginners and experienced walkers.
It takes less than 30 minutes to get from Porto Covo to Vila Nova de Milfontes. Once you get here, you can wander around the centre, passing by the Igreja Nossa Senhora da Graça and Largo de Brito Pais to take in the views of the Mira River.
The closest beaches to the centre are Praia da Franquia and Praia do Farol, and you can easily get there on foot from Largo de Brito Pais. There’s also another beach across the river called Praia das Furnas which you can reach by boat if you don’t have a car.
Further away, you can visit Praia do Malhão or Praia do Pessegueiro. This last one is on an island, so you’ll also need a boat to get there.
Beyond the beaches, there are many things you can do in Vila Nova de Milfontes. You can take a surf lesson, follow the coastal trails of Costa Vicentina or kayak along the Mira River. If you have time, it’s worth extending your stay to make the most of this region.
From Vila Nova de Milfontes, drive up to Alcácer do Sal, the last stop of this Alentejo tour.
Located along the Sado river, Alcácer do Sal is an old fishing town with a few historical sites. Rising above the town is a Moorish castle, offering panoramic views of the river and the rice fields growing along its edge.
Part of the castle was converted into a hotel, but even if you’re not staying here, you can go inside and walk along the ramparts. Next door, you can visit the Cripta Arqueológica, an Archaeological museum containing items from the Iron Age to the 19th century.
After the tour, head down to the riverfront and end the day with a stroll along the Avenida João Soares Branco. You can spend the night at the hotel in the castle or go back to one of the coastal towns.
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