Angers is a beautiful city lying on the banks of the River Maine. It has a long history going back hundreds of years meaning that you will see a mixture of architectural styles including mediaeval half-timbered buildings and grand Renaissance houses. The Chateau d’Angers is spectacular and there is a plethora of museums and art galleries to visit as well as beautiful green spaces to relax in. It is also one of the gateways to the Loire Valley where you will be able to enjoy wine tastings and tours of vineyards.
We have prepared for you a two-day itinerary covering the highlights of Angers and have given you ideas of where else to go if you have more time. So, here is our ultimate guide to visiting Angers.
Start your tour of Angers at the magnificent Chateau d’Angers, commissioned by Louis IX in the 13th century as a defence against the Anjou army. The chateau is surrounded by a three-metre-thick wall which is 800 metres long and has 17 towers, each 18 metres high. Climb one of the towers for a panoramic view of the city.
To enter the chateau, you have to cross a drawbridge which leads to the beautiful moat gardens. A free paper guide is available for touring the chateau, or you can pay a nominal fee for an audio guide. The chateau is an eclectic mix of architectural styles, mediaeval, renaissance, and baroque all blending together beautifully. Admire the elaborate furnishings, ornamental ceilings, and magnificent artwork throughout the chateau.
The highlight is the colossal Apocalypse tapestry which is 103 metres long and is the largest tapestry created in mediaeval times. It was commissioned by Louis I, the Duke of Anjou, in the 1370s and finished in 1382. The artist, Jean Bondol made the preliminary sketches, and the tapestry tells the history of 14th-century France. This was the time of the 100 Years War, an era when plagues were rife, and many people starved to death.
A six-minute walk takes you to this art gallery, named after David D’Angers, a native of the city and a famous sculptor of the 19th century. The gallery houses his works and in total there are 985 statues, medallions, and busts, including those of historical, contemporary, and literary figures such as Chateaubriand, Balzac, Hugo, and Goethe. The gallery also showcases many of his preparatory plasters.
Galerie David D’Angers is housed in a beautiful building. The 13th-century Toussaint Abbey, which was in ruins, was renovated and turned into this magnificent gallery with a glass roof.
A mere two-minute walk takes you to the Musee des Beaux Arts, which houses a massive collection of artworks from as far back as the Neolithic period, right up to the present. It offers two permanent galleries as well as temporary exhibitions. One of the permanent exhibitions showcases fine art from the 14th to the 20th century and includes paintings by such artists as Ingres, Fragonard, Lippi, and Jordaens. The other exhibition recounts the history of the city. You can take a guided tour of the museum or explore on your own.
You will probably be ready for lunch by now. If you go back a little way towards Galerie David D’Angers, you will find a gem of a restaurant, Le Dos de la Cuillere which serves French and modern European fare.
A four-minute walk from the Musee des Beaux Arts takes you to the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Angers. It is a mixture of architectural styles because, although it was constructed in the 13th century, it was frequently altered over the years. For example, the carvings in the western portal are Gothic, while the towers were added in the 16th century. Many of the stained-glass windows were destroyed in a fire in the 15th century so master glassmaker, Andre Robin, recreated them in 1453.
Maison d’Adam is a minute’s walk from the cathedral. You can’t miss it as it is a Renaissance timber building six storeys high, built in 1491. It looks a little lopsided as the upper levels are higher than the lower. They are supported by extravagantly carved corbels, including Adam and Eve on the Tree of Life, and the beams have an elaborate diamond design. Look out for the carving of Tricouillard who has his trousers down! The downstairs is now a shop which opens in the afternoon and sells artworks such as handcrafted glass and sculptures. Have a peek in the garden as it is amazing. There are around 60,000 plants and it is filled with statues, including one of Adam.
Musée Pincé is four minutes away and is a museum filled with classical and oriental art. Before you go in, admire the building from the outside as it is like a small Renaissance Loire Chateau. Some of the highlights of the museum are the Roman ceramics and the Egyptian hieroglyphics. The Japanese section is impressive, with theatre masks, bronzes, glassware, and porcelain. On the ground floor, there is an exhibition that changes annually, but always highlights collections from various museums in the city.
Start your second day’s tour at this small, but historic church. There are components from different periods covering the last 1,500 years. For example, the main nave was constructed in the 11th century, but it contains ancient sarcophagi and coffins. The dome is from the 10th century, while the sacristy is from the 18th. The church contains religious statues and artwork including busts by Gervais Delabarre and a beautiful wooden painted statue of the Virgin Mary.
An eight-minute walk takes you to Le Jardin du Mail which has been around since the 17th century. However, much of what you see today was designed in the mid-19th century by the French botanist, Andre Leroy. It is a beautiful park with symmetrical clipped hedges and flowerbeds. There are around 40,000 plants, an enormous fountain built in 1855, a pond, and some impressive statues. If you have children with you, they can have fun in the playground.
Within five minutes, you will be at the Museum des Sciences Naturelles where you will find a large collection of dinosaur fossils, stuffed animals, shells, preserved plant specimens, minerals, technical equipment, and bird displays. It has two sections, zoology and palaeontology in separate buildings, connected by a garden. You will be able to learn about local animals, as well as about fossils from all over the world. The museum also puts forward ideas to conserve the environment.
You may now be ready for lunch and there is a Thai restaurant close by, the Sawasdee Bangkok. Alternatively, you could put together a picnic of bread, cheese and charcuterie and take it to the Jardin des Plantes, which is the first afternoon stop.
This is a beautiful park covering four hectares with lawns, flowerbeds, and woodland. It has a lake and waterfalls as well as many sculptures throughout the park. A garden has been here since the 17th century, but the present garden was designed by Eduard Andre and constructed at the beginning of the 20th century in the style of an English garden. Not only are there British trees, plants, and flowers but there are more exotic specimens throughout the park. Look out for the paulownia tree, native to China and Korea and the Siberian elm. The park is child friendly as there is a parrot aviary, deer, and goats.
A 15-minute walk takes you to this museum housing modern tapestries, 10 created by the artist Jean Lurcat in the 1960s, collectively known as Le Chant du Monde. They were inspired by the Apocalypse Tapestry in the Chateau d’Angers and relate the good and bad in the world in the 20th century.
The museum is housed in an interesting building, a former 12th-century hospital, designed in the Gothic style. The Hall of the Sick or La Grande Salle des Malades has stunning vaulting, and the granary has been preserved to this day. The museum offers spectacular views of the Loire Valley.
A 27-minute walk takes you to Balzac Park which covers 50 hectares. Here you can take a stroll by the River Maine with the possibility of seeing a heron or two. It is a tranquil setting where you can relax or take a walk and enjoy the trees and plants.
There is plenty of choice of restaurants in Agers so most palates will be catered for. Many restaurants use fresh, local, seasonal products and deliver traditional French cuisine while some serve modern innovative cuisine. Whether you are looking for a cosy bistro or for a fine dining experience, you will be spoiled for choice. We have chosen a few restaurants and bistros which we think will excite you.
The best time to visit Angers is from mid-May until September. This is the warmest and sunniest period, with July and August peaking at temperatures often in the mid-20s or even hotter. However, July and August can be very busy so if you want to avoid the crowds come in June or September. Winter can be cold with the chance of snow and frost so it isn’t the ideal time to come, and some attractions may be closed. Also, the most rainfall is between October and January.
Angers has many festivals throughout the year and here are some of the best of them.
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