Chinon is a pretty town lying on the Vienne River in the Loire Valley. Wandering through the narrow cobblestoned mediaeval streets, you will come across timber-framed houses, unusual shops, ancient inns, and charming cafes where you can have a coffee and people-watch. The town has a chateau that is famous throughout the country as it was where St Joan of Arc met King Charles II in 1429. For many years the town housed the government, and a number of kings called it home. Apart from the chateau, there are several churches to visit and an interesting museum. Chinon is also a great base if you want to visit wineries, vineyards, and the many chateaux in the area.
We have prepared a 1-day itinerary which will take you to the highlights of the town. If you have more time, we have suggested other sites in and close to Chinon.
The chateau is the ideal place to start your tour as it is the highlight of the town. To get to it is a bit of a climb so you may want to do this when your energy is at its highest. However, there is a lift as well if you don’t fancy the climb. The chateau was originally built as a fortress in 954 and has kept its original style unlike many chateaux in the Loire Valley which were updated in the Renaissance style. In the 12th century, Henry II, King of England and King of Anjou made it his home.
The chateau offers guided tours, non-guided tours with a Hisptopad tablet, and tours with a booklet. Highlights include the furnished reconstruction of Charles VII’s bedroom and the room with mediaeval weapons.
At the entrance to the chateau is a clock tower where you will find the Joan of Arc Museum. It houses articles about the 100 Years War and many sculptures and paintings of Joan of Arc. You can climb the tower for fantastic views of the town.
The museum is only a five-minute walk from the chateau and deserves a good two-hour visit as there is plenty to see. It houses around 8,600 artefacts relating to fine arts, archaeology, and local history. There is a splendid collection of Renaissance artworks including a painting of Rabelais by Eugene Delacroix. A highlight is the collection of tapestries from the Middle Ages dating to the 13th century. They show biblical scenes and depict the lives of saints. A bonus is that it’s free to get into the museum.
You will have spent a considerable amount of time exploring the chateau and museum, so you will probably be ready for lunch by this time. There is a restaurant close by called La Table de Jeanne that serves traditional French cuisine like coq au vin. The museum is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
A seven-minute walk from the museum takes you to one of the many churches in the town, the Eglise Saint Maurice. It was built in the 12th century, replacing a 10th-century building. It was extended with a choir in the 12th century, a bell tower was added in the 15th century, and a side aisle in the 16th century. It was designated a historical monument in 1913. Most of the church was designed in the Gothic style, but the southern aisle is Renaissance. A highlight of the church is a statue of Joan of Arc created by Jules Dechin in 1900. The stained-glass windows are beautiful and were created by Theo Hanssen after the originals were destroyed by German bombing during WWII.
A five-minute walk takes you to the statue of Rabelais who is credited with being the first outstanding writer in France. Attracting opposition from both the Protestant and Catholic religions, he wrote Pantagruel which is a satire of religion, politics, and the society of the day.
Having seen the statue, walk to the Place du Général De Gaulle which takes two minutes. This is the modern part of town and where all the shops are so if you are a shopaholic, you will love it here. If not, have a coffee in one of the many cafes and people-watch.
A four-minute walk takes you to the 15th-century Gothic church of Saint Etienne, a Romanesque building listed as a historical site in 1962. It houses a statue of Joan of Arc created by Francois Sicard. Another highlight is a fresco exhibited on the north wall of the nave, found in the Collegiate Church of Saint Mexme.
A three-minute walk takes you to this church, the main religious building in Chinon until the Revolution. It is only open for guided visits and needs to be booked in advance. It is well worth it as it has stunning stained-glass windows as well as elaborate carvings. When restoration work was carried out in the 1980s, fragments of wall paintings from the 11th to the 15th centuries were discovered and can now be viewed.
Another activity in the chateau for children is a treasure hunt with the Histopad. The children have to search for eight historical objects in the chateau.
There are plenty of restaurants and bistros to choose from in Chinon whether you want traditional French cuisine or something a little different. Here are a few that we like.
One of the best times to visit Chinon is in the spring when the flowers have started to bloom and the weather is mild, ranging from 10 - 20C. If you prefer it hotter, come in the summer but be prepared for crowds. Spring and autumn are usually quieter and, in the autumn, the vineyards are in harvest so it is a fantastic time for tastings and to see the wine being produced. The winter is cold with temperatures between 3 and 10C and many attractions have reduced hours so it’s not the best time to visit.
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