Saumur is in the Loire Valley, a mere two-hour train journey from Paris. It has a long history stretching back centuries and people come to visit the stunning Chateau de Saumur and the many museums. Other draws include the vineyards and wineries, many producing the speciality of the area, sparkling wine, and the Cadre Noir, the illustrious riding school. However, Saumur is special in that it has a vast number of troglodyte caves with a total of 1,200 km of these underground galleries, rooms, and tunnels, some of which are open to the public.
We have prepared a one-day itinerary for you taking in many of the highlights of the town and have given you ideas of where else to visit if you have more time.
The Chateau de Saumur is the highlight of the town, so it is fitting that you start your tour here. It was first built as a fortress in the 10th century but was converted into a chateau in the 15th century by Renee of Anjou. As a result, it is a mixture of Medieval and Renaissance styles. You can tour the chateau either under your own steam or on a guided tour. The Great Hall is spectacular as it has an enormous fireplace and ornate ceilings. Climb one of the towers for panoramic views of the town and the river.
The chateau houses the Musee des Arts Decoratifs (Museum of Decorative Arts). It showcases furniture, tapestries, and ceramics from the 14th to the 18th centuries. Because of Saumur’s connection with equestrianism, historic artefacts such as stirrups, harnesses, saddles, and bits are also displayed.
There is an excellent restaurant within the chateau called L’Orangerie.
A seven-minute walk takes you to this lovely church built in the 12th century in the Gothic style. However, the current facade was added in the 17th century and is a prime example of the Baroque style. Go inside to see the stunning stained-glass windows and the 16th-century tapestry depicting the life of Saint Peter. Climb the tower for picturesque views of the town.
Walk over the bridge to this island in the middle of the Loire River. It should take you around 18 minutes but is worth the walk as you will be able to enjoy some beautiful views of the chateau and of the town. Take a walk by the riverbanks or, if you have children, head to the park so that they can let off steam in the playground.
Head back to the mainland and within 15 minutes you will be at this wine shop. It sells 26 appellations from the Anjou Saumur vineyards, and you will be invites to taste a selection of the wines and the staff will answer any questions you have. You can then purchase some bottles of wine and cellar items such as decanters and corkscrews. The shop is open from Tuesday until Saturday.
A further seven-minute walk takes you to the Musee de Cavalerie de Saumur which is in the old stables of the Cadre Noir. Here you will learn about the 600-year history of the French cavalry, starting with the early days in the 15th century during the reign of King Charles VII. There are two galleries in the museum showcasing armour, weapons, uniforms, and equestrian equipment. There is also an impressive collection of horse-drawn carriages and interactive displays which will entertain children.
By this time, you will be ready for lunch and there are plenty of restaurants in the vicinity.
This artisanal distillery was founded in 1834 and started off producing triple sec. Now it makes a wide range of liqueurs, gins, vodkas, absinth, cream liqueurs, and syrups. You can book a tour of the distillery which lasts an hour and includes a tasting of a selection of the liqueurs and spirits. You can, of course, then buy your favourites.
A brisk 20-minute walk takes you to this museum dedicated to the combustion engine. It showcases engines of all types, including those used in agriculture, industry, aviation, and cars. The collection includes 19th-century steam engines, oil and petrol engines from the 20th century, and contemporary engines. The museum is open on Tuesday and Saturday afternoons.
The next stop is 19 minutes away and is the family-run Caves Louis de Grenelle, a winery that produces sparkling wines which is a speciality of the region. You can book a tour of their troglodyte cellars which are under the building at a depth of 12 metres. The wines are kept at a temperature of 12C, so you need to bring a jacket or jumper when you visit. Following the tour, you will have a tasting of a selection of the wines.
End your day’s tour at the Jardin des Plantes, the Botanical Garden of Saumur. It is just a seven-minute walk away from the winery. It is a lovely way to end the day as the garden is beautiful with a variety of plants and flowers, aromatic herbs, and ancient trees. You will come across sculptures as you wander through the gardens and there are seating areas where you can relax in peace and quiet.
There is something to suit most tastes in Saumur from traditional bistros to fine dining experiences. Here are a few of them.
The warmest weather is between May and October although there can be a lot of rain in May and June. If you want it hot, go in July or August but it can get crowded. To avoid the crowds, head to Saumur in September or early October when it will still be warm. The coldest months are December, January, and February and December has a lot of rain, so this isn’t the best time to visit Saumur. Also, a lot of the attractions will be closed.
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